One thing that is really nice about school is that I
sometimes have a little so-called “free time”.
However, it’s not like the “free time” I remember when I was in
university nearly 15 years ago (oh God…)
Back in the old days, I was a smug and arrogant liberal arts
student convinced, like we all were, that I was uncovering great and profound
truths in the 15 or so hours a week spent in lectures like “Justice and Gender”,
“Survey of Comparative Politics” or “Philosophy of Law”. Like everyone else, I was probably an
insufferable asshole pontificating about concepts like “postmodernism” and “cultural
relativism”, while ignoring a hundred pages of readings over a pitcher of
Labatt 50 in the campus watering hole.
You can’t pull that crap in culinary school.
You can’t write 4000 words of bullshit the night before a
deadline, squishing the margins on the word processor, typing in a 13 point
typeface to eke out an extra page, and stuffing the footnotes with vaguely
relevant economic indicator stats pulled from the back page of The Economist. At the LCB, you have to produce something
nearly every day, and you can’t fake it.
Either you plate on time with a decent dish, or you don’t. And that means you need to practice.
So when I get a day off, or even part of a day off, I
practice.
I practice my knife skills.
So far this term I’ve probably run through nearly 12 pounds of carrots
working on my julienne, brunoise, and the always (for me at
least) horrible turning (or tournage). My knife work isn’t bad, but for some reason
I feel like I’m all thumbs at turning.
Turning, I am told, is the bane of culinary students everywhere, and I’m
no exception.
This is an example of what a properly turned turnip looks
like:
This is what I did to a carrot:
I also practice butchery and sauce-making, which is a bit of
an expensive endeavour. Canada has
cartels that control prices for products like chicken, butter, eggs, milk,
etc. Unless there is a sale on, a whole
chicken is going to cost about $10… a good quality, organic chicken usually
twice that. Butter, milk products and
eggs are scandalous rip-offs compared to prices in Ogdensburg, New York, just
45 minutes away. Consumers in Canada,
quite frankly, get hosed. But when
groceries are school supplies, you get on with it.
So while the other section of the Intermediate Cuisine class
had their Saucier workshop yesterday, I had the day off. I got up early (like an adult!), and got to
work on a batch of chicken stock, one of the most productive things you can do
with the old chicken carcasses from the depths of the freezer and sad-looking
vegetable scraps that might otherwise be headed for the rubbish bin.
Bashing up the carcasses and bones with a cleaver is really
one of the best forms of stress relief.
Bad weather? Whack! Friend who hasn’t returned my call? Whack!
Barista who screwed up my coffee? Jammed printer? Email spam?
Whack! Whack! Whack!
Sweat the vegetables:
Cover the whole mess with water, simmer, skim and repeat:
Having few frozen bricks of stock in the freezer is a great
luxury, making soups and sauces a whole lot tastier and less time-consuming,
and leaves me feeling slightly better about paying an extortionate price for
chicken in the first place (ok… not really).
I also like to practice a few other techniques and recipes
that I consider essential – I won’t give away all of those because I know at
least one of the Chefs reads this blog and I want to keep a few tricks up my
sleeve. But one I will admit to is my
quest for the perfect frite.
Who doesn’t love French Fries, Freedom Fries, chips, frites,
or whatever you like to call them? They
go with (almost) everything, and few people really know how to do them
well. I am convinced, however, that
Heston Blumenthal’s Triple Cooked Chips are the closest recipe to absolute
perfection. And of course, because I am
mentally incapable of leaving well-enough alone, I’ve spent the last year
screwing with nearly every aspect of the recipe and think I’ve figured out all
the corners I can cut and still get a good result. Never know…. It might come in handy sometime
soon.
A well-spent day off, but a lot more work ahead this
week.
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